Local Heart, Global Soul

August 31, 2009

France, travelling on towards the coast…

Filed under: France — kiwidutch @ 1:00 am
Tags: , , ,

(Photo © Kiwidutch)

(Photo © Kiwidutch)

Now we head off to find our next Pineau House, this one is further out ….. towards the town of Saint Sulpice de Royan. It’s a co-operative and the shop stocks Pineau, wine and Cognac from the various members of the co-operative. As usual there is a degustation available, and since Himself (with his local knowledge) is the one that is going driving this trip, I get to try (luckily in smallish taste cups) a range of Pineau’s before lunch and am enjoying it very much indeed. Although I like red wine I am not really a wine drinker… and considering that the only two drinks I usually drink are either Pineau or Port, and that I have one of these on one evening only every few weeks at home (rationing out our Pineau supplies between trips to the Charentes, since our experience has been that often the Pineau imported into The Netherlands are of a ratio of about 3 decent bottles to 7 not quite so great ones ) it’s amazing that I am still standing at this moment as my usual alcohol consumption is generally very low indeed, so right now I have already drunk more Pineau in a single morning than I usually do in two months.

Obviously not to be recommended as an every day experience, but since Himself is behind the wheel, (sigh) Someones gotta do it…

(Photo © Kiwidutch)

(Photo © Kiwidutch)

(Photo © Kiwidutch)

(Photo © Kiwidutch)

(Photo © Kiwidutch)

(Photo © Kiwidutch)

August 30, 2009

French Restaurant Review: Macqueville…

Filed under: France — kiwidutch @ 1:00 am
Tags: , ,

We wander though the main street at Macqueville and see that the small shop with restaurant attached is open, it’s lunch time and we decide to stop for lunch.

(Photo © Kiwidutch)

(Photo © Kiwidutch)

The menu is simple and no frills, I order Filet de poulet a la Charentais (Chicken with Pineau Sauce) and Hubby goes for the Aiguillettes du Canard (medallions of Duck)

(Photo © Kiwidutch)

(Photo © Kiwidutch)

(Photo © Kiwidutch)

(Photo © Kiwidutch)

We wait in the ripening heat of the courtyard and it warm enough to force us into the shade by the time the meal arrives. It’s a plain and simple meal, tastes good and with hubby’s “Assiette du formager” (selection of cheeses) and my “Coupe liegeoise chocolat” ice cream for dessert we enjoy reminiscing about meals eaten here in former times, with or without guests from The Netherlands or New Zealand that we have bought with us on occasion.

(Photo © Kiwidutch)

(Photo © Kiwidutch)

(Photo © Kiwidutch)

(Photo © Kiwidutch)

I photograph the old church and add to my collection of beautiful French war memorial statues…

(Photo © Kiwidutch)

(Photo © Kiwidutch)

(Photo © Kiwidutch)

(Photo © Kiwidutch)

(Photo © Kiwidutch)

(Photo © Kiwidutch)

and also for good measure the general architecture (like I need an excuse to photograph French buildings) Ha ! I love it all…

(Photo © Kiwidutch)

(Photo © Kiwidutch)

(Photo © Kiwidutch)

(Photo © Kiwidutch)

(Photo © Kiwidutch)

(Photo © Kiwidutch)

August 29, 2009

France: Macqueville…

Filed under: France — kiwidutch @ 1:00 am
Tags: , ,

We travel to a small town of Macqueville close to Hubby’s haunt, but where Pineau is no longer available, the Farmer who he worked for having passed away and also the other vigneron in the village. In Macqueville we search out M. Fevrier, as favourite vigneron from former times (and taste tests) who has excellent Pineau, but sadly he is away this morning elsewhere and our rings at his door receive no answer.

(Photo © Kiwidutch)

(Photo © Kiwidutch)

Instead, as we stand on the street, deciding where next to head, when a friendly voice greets us and we make inquiries as where to get good Pineau since M. Fevrier is away. Fortunately the friendly voice belongs to a Madame Moulin and we are happily directed to their family Pineau and Cognac business. We leave our car behind and she speeds us away down little lanes that wind though the grapes to the place where they have a Cave and where their Pineau is made.

(Photo © Kiwidutch)

(Photo © Kiwidutch)

(Photo © Kiwidutch)

(Photo © Kiwidutch)

(Photo © Kiwidutch)

(Photo © Kiwidutch)

With the ease of knowledge obtained from being born into a family that makes Pineau for generations, her teenage son takes us though the process and a degustation and after a small sampling (Himself was driving so I sampled and he took tiny sips) we relieve them of some Pineau that is duly loaded into their car, later transferred into ours and we have happily completed out first Pineau purchase. Himself also got a very decent looking bottle of 55 year old Cognac to complete our purchases.

August 28, 2009

Harvesting grapes by machine…

Today, most if not all of the grapes for Cognac and Pineau production are harvested by machines but the strict rules for the production of both are still followed and the ratios for grape juice to Cognac are tightly controlled. The year on the bottle of Pineau will be the designation of the eau de vie and not the year that the fresh grape juice was added, and the act of mixing the two is called “ assemblage” (“assembly” or “blending”) This blending stops the fermentation of the grape though a process called “ mutage”.

Now that hand picking of grapes in the Charentes Maritime is fairly well a thing of the past, how is it then done today? Well, with specialized machines like this one:

(Photo © Kiwidutch)

(Photo © Kiwidutch)

First the bottom part of the machine gently shake the vines so that the bunches of grapes drop off.

(Photo © Kiwidutch)

(Photo © Kiwidutch)

As the grapes fall they land onto a moving conveyor belt at the bottom of the machine that whisks them up to a hopper at the top.

(Photo © Kiwidutch)

(Photo © Kiwidutch)

From the hopper they will be transferred to the juicer (a separate machine) where they will be pressed and the fresh juice captured and added to the eau de vie on the same day as it was pressed.

(Photo © Kiwidutch)

(Photo © Kiwidutch)

Later it will be stored in oak barrels for at least 15 months but more usually years or decades.

(Photo © Kiwidutch)

(Photo © Kiwidutch)

August 27, 2009

Himself and Pineau…

(photo kiwidutch)

(Photo © Kiwidutch)

It all started when Himself and a school friend had just completed a 10 month travel adventure where he hitchhiked from The Netherlands to Turkey and then finding public transport cheap enough for their meager budget, they took buses etc all though Turkey, Iran, Afghanistan, Pakistan and India as well as side trips to Sri Lanka and Nepal. Upon his return to Europe he found it hard to settle into a regular routine and so contacted an agency who suggested maybe a stint of grape picking in France. The agency sent him to The Dordogne and he picked grapes there for three weeks, whilst there he met a young man from Scotland and they got on well.

When the Scot mentioned that he was leaving to pick grapes in the Charentes Maritime and that the farmer was one picker short, the offer was made for Hubby to go with them. He was hesitant at first because it would involve traveling there on their one designated “day off” and beginning work as soon as they got there, but fortunately he accepted the offer and the first massive welcoming French meal served by the farmer’s wife assured him that he had made a good decision. He arrived the first time with school textbook French and since the farmer and his wife knew no English and rather naturally no Dutch, he quickly adapted and came away speaking the French that is typical of the Charentes.

He returned to the hard work of picking grapes by hand to the same farmer and farmer’s wife for the next eight years, received always with open arms, wide smiles and exceedingly large meals. It was French Law that every grape picker was entitled to 3 liters pf wine per person per day (fortunately it was a light wine of 8-9%) but Hubby never managed to remotely achieve anywhere near the allocation in any of the years he picked grapes there. And thus Hubby was introduced to the secret of Pineau de Charentes…. and that this particular region of France formed a very special place in his heart.

August 26, 2009

Finding good Pineau des Charentes…

Pineau des Charentes01 (Small)

(Photos © Kiwidutch)

Pineau des Charantes is the “official” name of this aperitif, made exclusively in the departements of the Charente and the Charente Maritime in central-south-east France. What is particular is that even when we drove 3 hours north within France and asked about Pineau we were met with blank stares and puzzled looks because people there had never heard of this regional delicacy and delightful secret.

It can be obtained in some select areas of France from people who have learned the secret but don’t count on finding it outside the Charentes at all and count your blessings if you do. Apparently Belgium has it’s fair share of Pineau admirers and it can be found there more readily than most other areas of France but since we personally buy our stock when we visit the Charente, I couldn’t vouch for the accuracy of the Belgium information that I received. Certainly the best reason for getting your Pineau locally in the area where it is made is simply that you will be able to taste a sample of what you are getting and compare them, and they will be substantially cheaper in price.

So, why go all the way to the Charente and what exactly is this treasure? As I explained before ( in less detail) Pineau, as the locals simply call it (sometimes also known as “Pineau Charentais”) is made from the very first pressings of grape juice that is added to Cognac, which is a kind of brandy. This first juice must be made on the same day that the grapes are picked and then added to Cognac of various ages to produce a variance of taste results (and price too, since understandably an aged Cognac is more expensive a commodity then a young or barely aged Cognac.)

The story of Pineau is that it is a wonderful error of serendipity that happened in the late 1580′s when a servant (some say winemaker) added fresh pressed grape juice to a barrel that he thought was empty, but which contained eau de vie for Cognac, and unawares it was aged as usual with the other barrels and only a few years later was the result of this happy accident discovered and Pineau as we know it today was born.

Pineau des Charentes1a (Small)

(Photos © Kiwidutch)

If the grapes varieties of Ugni Blanc or Folle Blanche are used, then the resulting Pineau will be Blanc (White) and it is usually aged from between 15 months up to decades long, after which the colour varies from a light yellow to a creamy gold, depending on the oak barrels that it was aged in and the age of the eau de vie that it is mixed with.

Pineau Rose (Red) is made using Cabernet Franc, Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon grape varieties and is aged for at least 15 months. Both Rose and Blanc Pineau’s will end up with an alcohol content of about 17% and the final taste is similar to a good Port, but it’s different. Various Pineau’s have their own character and level of sweetness, and Hubby and I started out many years ago with a distinct preference for Blanc Pineau, probably simply because it was the only Pineau available when we first tasted it because Blanc was what was made by the farmer that Hubby worked for, and we never really tried the Rose much. Our experience is that here seems to be more of the Blanc available for sale, but after 17 and 26 years respectively of our personal Pineau admiration, we have slowly but surely formed a bigger preference for the Rose, and now that we mentioned this in one of the local vineyards, we were greeted by a smiling remark that that’s how the local French mostly prefer their Pineau too.

Colours of the Rose depend on the type of the grape used, the age of the eau de vie and the length of time that the Pineau has been aged in the barrel.

There are a multitude of small Pineau makers, some make it for commercial purposes, many for personal consumption only.

August 25, 2009

Breakfast in France: Saint-Jean d’Angély

St Jean 1 (Small)

(Photos © Kiwidutch)

Last evening’s meal, a long day driving and a pineau nightcap mean that we sleep well in this very simple but acceptible hotel. Breakfast is basic and typically French. The Hotel is called ” Hôtel Sweet Hôtel” is cheap, has parking, is very basic and clean… we needed nothing more. We get ready for the day, find the breakfast room and sit to eat….

then I notice the photos on the walls that have been taken in the town, they echo the same ancient buildings but have been taken in a different era, I adore things like this, I think I’m a secret History buff because I love to see what changes in an area or what endures in it’s original form.

I wonder about the reasons that some are gone and imagine the history of what has go on inside these walls, down these streets and how people lived and did business.

St Jean 1g (Small)

(Photos © Kiwidutch)

St Jean 1c (Small)

(Photos © Kiwidutch)

St Jean 1f (Small)

(Photos © Kiwidutch)

St Jean 1j (Small)

(Photos © Kiwidutch)

St Jean bread (Small)

(Photos © Kiwidutch)

St Jean 1h (Small)

(Photos © Kiwidutch)

St Jean 1i (Small)

(Photos © Kiwidutch)

St Jean 1l (Small)

(Photos © Kiwidutch)

August 24, 2009

Oh la la! photos of some authentic French Letters!

Filed under: France,photography — kiwidutch @ 1:00 am
Tags: , ,

Oh la la! photos of some authentic French Letters!

Yep indeed… the real thing, beautiful and striking in their ornamentation or their simplicity.

Authentic French Letters…

French letters 00000 (Small)

(Photos © Kiwidutch)

(Photos © Kiwidutch)

(Photos © Kiwidutch)

French letters 000000 (Small)

(Photos © Kiwidutch)

August 23, 2009

France:Restaurant Review:Saint Jean d’ Angely,Restaurant le Mareyeur

With a few bottles of Pineau des Charentes sampled via a “degustation” and percured minutes before the shop’s closing time, our thoughts now turn to dinner. It’s late in the day, we have traveled far and the bar up the street with the drunken patrons isn’t an inviting prospect. There’s a place on the opposite side of the square that looks rather touristy, but it will do.

Saint Jean d angely2 rest le mareyeur 1 (Small)

Restaurant le Mareyeur is indeed a tourist trap, and even speaking my best French, my accent was quickly detected and without a word an English language menu was placed before me. Not what I personally prefer since the aim of any trip to France is to increase my French and not reduce it… but oh well. I made the waitress smile when later when after reading the menu in English I ordered the items in French… she treated me more French after that which I appreciated. Himself was driving, so had one wine with his meal… happy to not be behind the wheel, I indulged in a Pineau…

(Photos © Kiwidutch)

(Photos © Kiwidutch)

Hubby ordered salmon appetizer and then Mussels cooked in white wine and I ordered Salmon with Pineau Sauce,

(Photos © Kiwidutch)

(Photos © Kiwidutch)

(Photos © Kiwidutch)

(Photos © Kiwidutch)

(Photos © Kiwidutch)

(Photos © Kiwidutch)

Dessert for me was what the menu painfully called “ turned apple pie” but was in fact a very French “ Tarte Tartin” …

(Photos © Kiwidutch)

(Photos © Kiwidutch)

(Photos © Kiwidutch)

(Photos © Kiwidutch)

Hubby went for his firm favourite ”Mousse au Chocolat (Chocolate Mousse).

All in all a very good meal indeed. The staff were friendly and the food was well cooked and well presented. For what I had considered as a not so good choice because of it’s very touristic looks, turned out far better than expected and it was a very nice surprise. We left happy and replete, and stomachs satisfied, would have no problems to eat here again.

(Photos © Kiwidutch)

(Photos © Kiwidutch)

August 22, 2009

France: Saint-Jean d’Angély, still more…

(photo kiwidutch)

(photo kiwidutch)

Saint-Jean d’Angély has many wonderful old medieval buildings in the town center, some of which date back to the 15th and 16th Century. Near the Place du Pilori there is a 16th century fountain, there is the Abby and other surrounding buildings associated with Les Chemins de Saint-Jacques de Compostelle. There is also a clock tower “Tour de l’Horloge” that dates from 1406. It’s well worth taking the time to walk the narrow streets and enjoy the sights. There is so much to see… take a camera to remember it all !

(photo kiwidutch)

(photo kiwidutch)

kkkkkkkkkkk

Saint Jean d angely1gg (Small)

Closing up the fruit and vegetable shop for the day…

Saint Jean d angely1u (Small)

Old building…

Saint Jean d angely1y (Small)

..seriously old building…

Saint Jean d angely1x (Small)

Beautiful old building…

Saint Jean d angely1xxx (Small)

Tour de l’Horloge….

Saint Jean d angely1xxxx (Small)

Here’s an idea… let’s send the Removal Truck Company down here with the GPS…. or maybe not?

Saint Jean d angely2o (Small) Saint Jean d angely2b (Small)


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