Local Heart, Global Soul

June 5, 2012

A Feed That Prepares us for Sailing Home…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

In this last post about Shippey’s  takeaway and Fish and Chip restaurant, I combine two of my favourite things: Food and Detail.

The fish may be NZD $8,00 per piece (about USD $4,00) but it was quality fish, fresh and well cooked.

Every last one of us enjoyed our meals and the kids were then less grumpy and more ready for the drive back to my friend’s house. Each of them were given the option of an ice-cream or a milkshake for dessert .

Little Mr. tried to wrangle both but after way more deliberation than was really necessary, went for the milkshake which turned out to be more than he could manage so I got some funny family shots of him and Himself grinning with their heads together, a straw each in the milkshake and later determined looks on their faces as they tried to outdo each other on the drinking front.

In reality of course Himself held back and staged things so the Little Mr. could  ”win” the contest, but put up a good “show” for the camera and in his determination Little Mr. filled himself up so much on milk that once he was back in the van he  curled himself as much into a little ball as was possible with a seatbelt on and swiftly dozed off for the whole journey back.

I’m delighted to have visited  this area again… the visit in my teens made an impression that lasted (at least in snippets) and I was surprised what memories of the Treaty House and Waitangi area came flooding back once I was there again.

I like this area of New Zealand…  but sigh… if only it had the drier South Island weather that I adore and a few of the Southern Alps it would be perfect LOL.

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

Seagull on the approach…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

Seagull landed…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

June 4, 2012

All Aboard, Above and Below Decks…

In a continuation of yesterday’s post, we are on the three masted sailing vessel that is the “Shippey’s” Fish and Chip takeaway and Restaurant.

The kids race to try out some swivel barstool type chairs in the open seating area on the open part of the foredeck… the menu is short and sweet but getting  two particular tired kids to decide between burgers and fish and nuggets is astonishingly more complicated than I could ever have imagined.

(yes, sadly the Kiwidutch kids are both fussy and obstinate at times). There’s a seating area for patrons below decks too… good for winter dining I imagine and for kids birthday parties. Whilst our order is being cooked we take a look around.

(note: the upstairs looks a bit empty in my photos but that’s actually rather misleading because it was, just for a few minutes when we arrived but within 15 minutes or so people streamed in and in no time the upstairs was packed. There were also a fairly constant stream of people picking up takeaways).

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

June 3, 2012

Spying a Ship Shape Chippie…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

Yet more pages out of my retrospective  diary of our New Zealand travels of December 2011- January 2012.

We have the nine seater van packed to capacity with my friend and her four children and the Kiwidutch Four,  and everyone is hungry.

I’m tired after the walk around (part) of  the Waitangi grounds and remembering that I spied something unusual a little way down the road just before we entered Waitangi so I ask Himself and my friend if they fancy Fish and Chips for dinner.

Fairly instantaneous cries of  ”oh yum,  ooh Yes Please”  from six children in the van and three parents figuring out that agreement was going to be by far the best easiest option  meant that a few minutes later we find ourselves pulling into the car park of the most unusual Fish ‘n Chip  shop I’ve ever seen.

On part of the Te Ti Bay in the Bay of Islands, rests a large sailing ship called “Shippey’s” and apparently the fish and chips, whilst not cheap, are excellent.

I do notice that the ship is on block s (um, can a  ship technically be on blocks? are they piles?  anyway it’s perched on wooden bits that keep it falling over on it’s side when the tide goes out).  Full marks btw for spotting that  matters of engineering and the sciences were never my strong suit LOL.

Since I am into the arty stuff… Let’s take  look around the outside of this beautiful vessel.

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

… You know  you want to come aboard… lead the way up the gangplank…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

May 30, 2012

A Little Wander Around Waitangi…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

You are following our retroactive tour of  New Zealand made in December 2010 - January 2012.

At this point of the trip it’s early in the New Year and we are at Waitangi, in the Bay of Islands, in Northland.

We’ve just left the massive  ”waka” or  canoe and are slowly making our way around the grounds.

Himself, my friend and our combined group of children got so far ahead of me that they’ve had time to have a paddle in the sea as well as a good run around.

I’ve been taking my time, stopping to rest and plodding along carefully on my crutches.  This set of photos takes us past various parts of the Waitangi Grounds… some very important bits are coming up, but they get their own post.

We are heading towards the grass-topped knoll that I could see earlier on the peninsular when I zoomed in with the camera (from our picnic lunch spot on the beach at Paihia a few posts back). Paihia is across the bay at the extreme far right in the background of  the first photo, and the beach we were on is probably just fractionally out of shot, about another centimetre to the right. There’s another Maori Meeting House here at Waitangi too and I would have liked to have gone over and had a look inside but it was some distance away and I was getting rather  tired so decided to pass that one up. It’s excellent to get out and about but I’ve got to recognise my physical limits and know when enough is enough.

Little Mr gets disproportionately excited (as only six year old boys can) when a helicopter passes by so that photo is for especially for him and any other “plane spotters” amongst my readers (although I assume that adult plane spotters don’t emit very loud high pitched squeals when they spot helicopters LOL).  There is the possibility to walk in a large loop that would take us back to the Information Centre at the entrance but  after seeing the next two things  just around the corner  (all will be revealed soonest!) I find it’s time to call it quits on the walking, so Himself  sprints back to the car park and retrieves the van to pick us up.  Let’s take a look around this last part of the grounds …

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

May 27, 2012

Waitangi… a Place of National Significance…

Filed under: History,Life,New Zealand,photography,Places and Sights,Travel — kiwidutch @ 1:00 am
Tags: , , ,

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

In a continuation of yesterday’s journal post,  we have finished our picnic lunch,  had  a rest  in the shade whilst the kids let off steam running around and now departed Paihia for the short drive to Waitangi.

Waitangi is the place where the Treaty of Waitangi was signed and as such is celebrated as New Zealand’s National Day on 6th February each year.

We start by looking around the Information Centre… and making our way around the site to see some very specific things and places.

This post however focuses on the entrance and the first part of Waitangi’s grounds.

I was last here as a teenager and a lot has been added and updated since then,  including the Information Centre itself, and and this very funky walkway that  leads us in under a welcome cool canopy of native trees…  The shade is very nice and much appreciated today since the temperatures today are still climbing steadily. Himself, my friend and the six kids race ahead exploring and I take my time at the rear, stopping for photos and little rests. Let’s take a look around the entrance to Waitangi…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

May 26, 2012

Just One Little Bay in a Whole Bay of Islands…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

At this part of my retrospective journal we’ve reached the lovely area of  Northland called the Bay of Islands.

There are a multitude of beautiful places to see around here, accessible by road and probably half a lifetime of places to visit if we had a boat, but we are stopping in Paihia where we find a picnic table under the shade of some trees just a few metres from the beach.

Since the day is hot and the sun is out, several of the older girls  indulge in some  sea-side paddling, whilst my friends four year old and Little Mr.  only have eyes for the playground equipment located a convenient distance from our picnic table.

My friend and I break out the contents of the picnic basket, make an assembly line and soon a large pile of sandwiches disappear into hungry waiting hands.

People all around us are relaxing in the sun, playing in the water or just sleeping on blankets on the grass.

In the last two photographs I use maximum zoom to look into the distance:  a small peninsular, topped partly near it’s end with a grassy area that features a large flagpole…  this is a very special place in New Zealand’s history…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

May 24, 2012

Hundertwasser is Everywhere, But to Catch Gabriel and Frederick We Need a Return Visit…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

When I mentioned a few posts back that Austrian architect  Friedensreich Hundertwasser left his mark on Kawakawa, I wasn’t joking.

The quirkiness of his style is literally plastered all over the place.

There are even isolated tiles in the pavements and in walls…

Even a quick look around this small town will give you the idea that this guy’s influence has crept in almost everywhere!

The Café across the street,  gift shops and a raft of other local businesses have all been given what I might loosely term the  ’ Hundertwasser ‘ treatment, giving this small town a really special vibe.

I  can clearly see that the residents fell as much in love with  Hundertwasser ‘s style as he did with their town… a fitting  memorial to a man who’s work brings tourists from afar and puts some needed tourist dollars into the small businesses of this little community.

Hundertwasser lived close to the town of Kawakawa  for 25 years, at first for short stays, commuting back to Vienna regularly but as time progressed he started to spend more and more of his time at his New Zealand property preferring the small town community’s easy-going  and relaxed attitude and privacy afforded to him and as a place where he could enjoy an anonymity that he didn’t receive as famous architect in Europe.

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

I’d love to come back here again one day… not just to get more photographs of  Hundertwasser’s work around the town but also because we missed another very special item unique to this little town… the trains!

Kawakawa is the only town in New Zealand to have a train track running right down the main street!

Apparently this originated back in the days when Kawakawa was called “Irishtown” and was the centre of a booming coal mining industry and coal was transported to Opua on the coast.

After  coal production ceased the line was used for other transport purposes until it was overtaken by other larger links to bigger deeper water ports.

For a while here was a vintage railway group using the line until 2000 when circumstances closed them down, but in 2006 a new Trust was formed and  The Bay of Islands Vintage Railway now runs weekend steam train excursions though the town at weekends.

We looked for “Gabriel” the famed steam engine  or “Frederick” the diesel engine but with no success. Yet another reason to try and come back here again:  I’d love a train ride!

The Trust has a website and once you take a look at the video on the first page, I’m certain you’ll probably want one too!   www.bayofislandsvintagerailway.org.nz

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

March 12, 2012

Thanks to an Under Water Mountain Range…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

Now that we have seen some seals and taken a short  break…it’s time to  continue our journey northwards to Picton.

I took a few photos of Kaikoura when we passed through…   it’s little wonder that you can see references to whales and whaling here: because naturally the place is famous these days for its’ whale watching possibilities.

In other photographs I tied to capture the various hues of blues  and turquoise colours in the sea,  also a tell-tale signs that the whales are close by because the coastline here has some very special undersea geography that bring whale here in vast numbers.

If you were to set sail  east from Kaikoura and  ventured far far out into the Pacific ocean, you would eventually hit the Chatham Islands.

Now imagine a massive underwater mountain range, deep under the sea connecting the Chathams and New Zealand.  Basically this acts like an undersea wall, with very deep water on either side.

Plankton and other  microbial sea life get swirled around on the deep undersea currents and hit this wall, eddying up in a large circle and it’s this large whirlpool of food that brings whale here to feed.

The other piece of the undersea geography puzzle is that at Kaikoura the continental shelf  makes a sweeping dent from the Pacific  towards land, coming within three kilometres of the South Island so it’s possible to travel by boat the short distance from land and see whales in their deep water feeding areas.

What was one hundred years ago a whaling station for hunting whales is now a multi-million dollar tourist industry for whale watching.

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

The mountain range in front of us are called the Seaward Kaikoura’s…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

and the even bigger ones behind them are called the Inland Kaikoura’s…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

Kaikoura is also famous for lobster…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

The camera doesn’t do it justice, you have to see it to believe it….

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

The top of the South Island becomes drier and the distinctive rows of grapes tell you that you are entering the famous Marlborough wine region … the road winds onwards and we follow where it leads.

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

August 18, 2011

Time Travel to a Dry Island where the Strange History starts right at the Airport…

Filed under: Cape Verde,Life,Travel — kiwidutch @ 1:00 am
Tags: , , ,

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

Ok, time for a little travelling… Virtual time travel that is, since I’m not up to going anywhere much right now.

I have a Best Friend who is  Godmother to Kiwi Daughter and Little Mr.

She’s the kind of person who is always helping out other people, one who happily takes both kids sometimes when Himself  and I have business trips to make, a special event to attend or just need a Mama and Papa weekend to ourselves.

We hesitated to do this when our kids were very young, we just couldn’t bring ourselves to leave them, but once Little Mr had started school (and we realised that by doing this as parents we had almost no social lives any more) we decided that make a few changes, and Best Friend always helped out willingly.

We wanted to give something back and so asked her if she wanted to come on holiday with us… and when she said she would love to, we presented her with her air tickets and accommodation as a gift.

As is somewhat our fashion, we didn’t go to anywhere that most people usually trek to,  we went to the Cape Verde Islands.

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

Cape Verde is an ex-portuguese colony, and Himself suggested this destination since he’s learning Portuguese. Good idea so far…

So where is Cape Verde? well if you go to the north-western part of Africa to the country of  Senegal, and then go about 570km out into the Atlantic you will find the ten islands that make up the Cape Verde islands.

The word “verde” means “green” in portuguese, but this is a little misleading because some of the islands are  green  but others are what are called “dry islands” i.e. they are not very green at all, or in the case of a few of them, they are pretty much dessert.

This trip took place  four years ago when Little Mr was only two years old and Kiwi Daughter was six,  and the flights that come here usually land first on the island of Sal because it has the only airport capable of handling International flights. Transfers are then made from there to the other islands by plane or by boat.

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

We also choose Sal because on some of the other islands in the group you need to take precautions against malaria, but not on the dry volcanic islands like Sal and we felt the kids were a little too young for a trip that might involve a malaria risk.

This is how we ended up staying in the town of Santa Maria on Sal, in the Cape Verde Islands.

Sal’s airport, Amilcar Cabral International Airport, used to be used as a refuelling base by South African Airways on its Johannesburg to London routes.

This was because during the apartheid era, no other African nations allowed South Africa access to their airports… also, another interesting fact about the airport is that the runway was built by Italy’s Benito Mussolini at the time of the second world war, because he wanted an airstrip big enough for refueling for trips to Brazil…( the airstrip was given back to the Cape Verdians after the Second World War…)

Later, South African flights to and from New York and Atlanta also refueled here, and the island was a crew-change station. SAA established the extra long runways needed by the fully fueled Boeing 707s on their take-offs in the high temperatures. SAA no longer flew to Sal after 2006 due to the cancellation of the Atlanta route.

For a (kind of) map view of Cape Verde I’ll take you to a restaurant  in Santa Maria where all the tables are in the shape of the islands of Cape Verde… the tiniest island table seats one person, the bigger ones four to six people etc…

…what an  excellent way to combine our love of gastronomy with our love of geography !

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

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