Local Heart, Global Soul

August 16, 2010

Sheep in the “garden” and other Unexpected Views…

Filed under: The Netherlands — kiwidutch @ 1:00 am
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(photograph © Kiwidutch)

It’s time for us to leave Slot Loevestein and head home…  the weather has been brilliant, we managed to arrive before the hordes so as we leave, the main street area of the garrison, (almost deserted when we arrived), is now packed with people having a late lunch/early dinner.

We concentrate on the former houses opposite the cafe’s, … which now house room after room of exhibits  excavated around the castle.

I did take lots of photos there, but made a fatal mistake of knocking the dial of my small pocket camera off “automatic” and halfway to the next setting.

I saw it on the camera when were outside the castle later and fixed the setting not thinking anything of it  until I  put the chip into the computer at home. Then I saw that most of the photos I took inside the museum were out of focus and looked over exposed. Oh well, I suppose it happens sometimes.

We have just finished walking around the entire castle, there is an extended walk that takes in the extended land also under castle ownership beyond the outer castle  defenses, but it’s a step too far for Little Mr’s legs today after all that stair climbing, bucketloads of running on the embankments and playing as much as possible everywhere.

All we need to do now is to give you a short tour of the grounds…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

Like the old shoes that have been found around the castle and grounds, we have done our walking for the day and it’s time to head  for home for  a rest…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

August 15, 2010

A Castle and the equivalent of the Penthouse View…

Filed under: The Netherlands — kiwidutch @ 1:00 am
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(photograph © Kiwidutch)

Naturally getting to the very top of the Castle towers,  you want to take a look at the view.

The one small thing that puts a spanner in the works is the medieval builders did not put in panoramic windows at the top of their castles…

Come on now,Mr Medieval Builder, a little vision would not have gone astray now would it?  What?  You need protection from flaming arrows and cannon balls? (sigh)  Ok, Ok…

And so it is, that there are no convenient windows on all four sides at the top of the tower, I have to make do with pressing the camera up to the glass in the small ones near the top.

Still, with  view like this… who cares, anyone can feel like the “King of the Castle” and  it was worth all those stairs.

Let’s take a look…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

August 14, 2010

And my kids think they are hard done by, because we have no Dishwasher!

Filed under: The Netherlands — kiwidutch @ 1:00 am
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(photograph © Kiwidutch)

For any self confessed Foodie the most interesting room when visiting anyones home is always the kitchen.

Castles, for Foodies are just “former homes” and even more interesting because they also speak volumes about the Culinary Art of ages past.

When our guide tell us that the next room will be the castle kitchen, my heart soars, when I rounded the corner and saw it …my heart sank…  wow, how sparse!  and for the number of people that  castle would have housed and necessitated feeding,  how  amazingly small!

The is a massive fireplace with a kind-of-spit-roast-thingy (for want of a better, more accurate technical term) but it’s a huge contraption that’s easily as tall as I am with a quadruple layer of turning spits and handles…. not only a remarkable  feat of engineering but also probably an annoyingly delicate balancing act to use in practice.

Most of the articles here today are  reproductions of what would have been represented here in centuries past, but two things grab my attention immediately: a less than round barrel that isn’t a reproduction and the source of water: a well.

Yes, literally parked into a recess in the outer wall there is a large cover (closed now for safely reasons)  over the large opening, with a pulley system and a wooden bucket above that again.

Even in summer, the  task of hauling water up from the depths of the well must have been a thankless enough task. In Winter it must have been pure misery. Water is heavy,  and pulling on a rope with your bare hands  is harder than it looks. Even with strong arms,  the chances are that the water hauler probably got splashed quite often and layers of wet  medieval clothes were probably no fun to squelch around in or to get dry.

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

Since invariably, menial kitchen work was done by women, there were probably rather a lot of scullery maids with fabulously toned biceps  hidden under their tunics and bodices simply because they hauled water from the well so often. No workout video’s needed  in those days!

It appears from the diet depicted here that food was very simple, very seasonal and probably sometimes rather limited.

The Dutch are the tallest people in the world, but it wasn’t always that way…  centuries ago they were usually rather short. Look at any preserved suit of armor that’s a few centuries old and you may be shocked at just how short.

My nine year old daughter has a far closer chance height-wise of getting into one of these suit than I ever would, and Himself?  Yikes,  by medieval standards  he’s a Goliath, and towers over the suit of armor like a friendly giant.

The amusing thing about that is that Himself is not considered “especially tall” here  in The Netherlands,  but yes, does attract comment when we travel. LOL

We have two nephews who are equal in height to Himself, and one of them is still growing!

In little over a century it’s abundantly clear that diet has played a massive role in how tall the Dutch were as a nation,  and have become today. Milk and cheese consumption here is wondrously huge and it’s not just Dutch height that has skyrocketed, it’s also longevity. So many people here celebrate their 100th Birthday these days  that it’s barely news any more.

So, simple food is a nice thought, but too simple and probably not enough of it, not only stunted growth but also meant short lives. Of course there are many other factors, people dying of the common cold or very small  infected wound  is thankfully no longer the regular occurrence it once was centuries ago.

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

This kitchen is very small,  there are some tables, but other than the oval shaped barrel in the corner, no other furniture remains, I try and envisage some, but it’s hard since the room is irregularly shaped and  there’s not really a lot of  open space.

At least the wooden doors remain, … beautiful, but nothing can hide the fact that the food cooked here was probably seasonal, very plain and exceptionally repetitious.

If you are well off enough to be sitting reading this on a computer, chances are that you also have food in your fridge, a supermarket or a garden, or a farmers market at hand somewhere close by, and such a selection of foods to choose from that  any medieval person walking though a time warp between their kitchen and yours, would  be totally overcome at the sheer scale and variety of food items on offer.

We don’t have a dishwasher in the Kiwidutch household, (well, actually we do, since all four of us enjoy the job description of “washer and dryers of dishes“).

Next time my kids complain of the task, or when I look at the pots and pans stacked up  in the sink and think “ugh, not really in the mood for this but where shall I start?”

I should at least have a decency to remember the poor medieval scullery maid, who had no instant hot water from the tap, just buckets of cold, nay, oft freezing water to do her dishes in.

If I also remember her fabulous biceps, then I might also see some gain and (gasp!), pleasure,  in my household  manual labour.

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

August 13, 2010

What’s a Kruittoren? …Ka BOOM! Now THERE’s a hint!

Filed under: The Netherlands — kiwidutch @ 1:00 am
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(photograph © Kiwidutch)

In days gone by when warfare involved gunpowder, it  was clear that keeping your very volatile ammunition outside the castle you were defending was imperative if you didn’t want an enemies lucky shot to blow you to smithereens  in rather catastrophic fashion.

So just where do you keep your gunpowder safe and dry for when you need it?

In a  specially constructed Gunpowder Tower of course.

Now another small Dutch lesson: “Kruit” means  “Gunpowder” and “toren” means Tower, so  “Kruittoren” is the  Dutch word for Gunpowder Tower.

Even though Slot Loevestein is a rather boxy, rectangular, style of castle,  medieval builders clearly also like to build in the round, so this Gunpowder Tower sports the classic fairly-tale style look of a tower.

Inside it’s surprisingly small (naturally the walls must be very thick indeed) and there is sadly little to see because the top floors are closed to the public and in the small lower level  room that is open, is empty except for a short film and a table full of leaflets for various places and things on offer in the region.

I would have liked to look at the film but the kids bored quickly and it’s probably better suited to slightly older kids.

One of the pamphlets repeats information also found on the Loevestein website:

“The Kruittoren is one of the two towers that remained following the siege of 1397. The outer bailey was badly damaged during the siege; the other tower was completely destroyed and  has never been rebuilt. As its name suggests, the Kruittoren was used as a gunpowder store for many years.”

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

There are other out-buildings around the castle from centuries past as well. These days they house a museum /shop, cafes and one opens shortly as a Bed and Breakfast… ( I forgot to get a photo of that last one, sorry, anyway apparently  it’s a “special occasion” type of B&B,  ie Luxurious and pricey)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

August 12, 2010

Castle at Rest and at Play…and Everything in-between.

Filed under: The Netherlands — kiwidutch @ 1:00 am
Tags: , , ,

Ok, to be fair, my last post didn’t really give you a good idea of the actual inside of the rooms inside Loevestein Castle.

Here’s a proper look inside…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

Wardrobe ( closet) for your suit?

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

This is the roof space at the very top… the massive winch used to be used to haul furniture , beams for repairs etc though a series of trapdoors that are aligned in the floors below it (sealed closed now for safety reasons)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

There was apparently some time available for children’s fun and games… this is a a copy of a medieval game of skittles, my own children delight in having a go and and I even manage to get a photo of the ball swinging by…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

So… What part of the Castle will we swing by next?

August 11, 2010

Think that living in a Castle would be a Fairy Tale?, Think again!

Filed under: The Netherlands — kiwidutch @ 1:00 am
Tags: , , ,

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

I know that in fairy tales that living in a castle seems like a dream come true.

Reality though, is rather colder and  massively more drafty.

One thing that amazes me is that despite the fact that the Dutch of past centuries were far shorter than the Dutch of today (better diet has clearly made a massive difference to the height of the population), that the rooms have massively high ceilings and surely must have been desperately hard to heat in winter.

Castle builders did learn that thick walls were not only a great defensive addition to their buildings, and also made it possible to build the structure higher and at Loevestein Castle parts of the walls  are meters thick.

Fireplaces, as the only form of heating were typically very large indeed, and even then they were not particularly efficient  as a method of heating.

Staircases were  deliberately made very narrow and winding in order to make storming a castle very difficult for enemy soldiers in their armour.

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

On a physical level, its clear that security was paramount, but on a practical level, day to day chores like getting firewood to those  massive fireplaces on the upper floors  must have  been  amongst the many back-breaking chores that would not have been pleasant or easy daily tasks.

Slot Loevestein was not built in one go, but started life as a Keep that was added on to bit by bit over time, and in five stages of building, this resulted in outer walls  becoming the ” inner” walls of the courtyard that was eventually formed once the four sides were joined together.

In this next photo,  please take note of  the small window with the open shutter in the very centre of the photograph…

… and then the very tiny window directly above it higher up…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

This next one is a photo taken looking down into the courtyard from the lower window (with the shutter)…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

And then another looking down from the tiny window at the top…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

Another photo from the first side shows the narrowness of the courtyard and the plaque that commemorates Hugo De Groot and his escape from the castle in the book-chest.

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

Windows were very small, so many of the rooms were dark… this makes deep inside window seats…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

For some bizarre reason the floors in the doorways of the lower levels were arched to match the arches above the doors… it’s so unusual that I actually did a double take and assumed for a moment that I had accidentally turned the photos upside down.

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

Small door into the Castle courtyard…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

and one of the “windows” directly inside this door…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

This is the small passageway that leads to the toilet…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

The actual toilet is very basic indeed and as was usual with conveniences of the time, it protrudes out of the outside wall a little, there is an open hole in the bottom so that the “contents” drop down into the moat below.  (um, bitterly cold in winter methinks!)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

Other nooks and crannies …

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

and an interesting roof-line… to quite literally top it all off…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

August 9, 2010

Loevestein Castle, it’s All about location, location, location…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

Before we go exploring the inside of the Castle, you need to understand the location of Slot Loevestein castle and how it’s location has defined it’s history.

Slot  Loevestein was built strategically at the junction of the Meuse and Waal Rivers by  Knight, Dirc Loef van Horne  in 1360 in order to levy tolls on both rivers.

It’s worthwhile to know that roads at this time were fairly non existent and boggy ground often made land areas impassable so waterways were the “highways” of choice as the quickest and safest way of transporting people and goods.

Exacting Tolls at various strategic places on rivers made many landowners very wealthy indeed, and such was the case with Dirc Loef van Horne .

As as additional bonus the castle also was strategically placed as a defensive position, and thus served as a military stronghold, and that’s how the small garrison town came to be attached to the Castle.

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

It also served as the state prison from which Hugo Grotius  famously escaped in a book chest (more on those escapades in my  next  post)  and as part of the “Hollandsche Waterlinie” (Dutch Waterline.)

So what was the “Dutch Waterline”? Well, it became clear during the Dutch war of independence from Spain that the deliberate flooding of low lying land against advancing enemies, worked brilliantly as a defensive tactic. During the 1574 Siege of Leiden it was  used with great success.

The economic heartland of The Netherlands were the two provinces of North and South Holland and so Maurice of Orange Nassau planned to protect  this area with a  literal “moat” of flooded land. The edges of this “moat” were protected by fortresses that ran from Zuiderzee  to the river Waal. Prince Frederick Henry implemented  the plan in 1629.

Wiki tells us that : “Sluices were constructed in dikes and forts and fortified towns were created at strategic points along the line with guns covering especially the dikes that traversed the water line. The water level in the flooded areas was carefully maintained to a level deep enough to make an advance on foot precarious and shallow enough to rule out effective use of boats (other than the flat bottomed gun barges used by the Dutch defenders).

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

The Dutch Water Line proved its value less than forty years after its construction during the Franco-Dutch War of 1672 when it stopped the armies of  Louis XIV from conquering the Dutch Republic.

In 1794-1795 the revolutionary French armies only overcame the obstacle posed by the Dutch Water Line due to the heavy frost that had frozen solid the flooded areas.

Naturally owners of these fortresses gained not only Royal favour but also wealth and power so it’s little surprise that Slot Loevestein Castle was an excellent economic  and strategic investment.

The defensive style of the Castle can be seen in the use of triangular bastions and ravelins, these are the triangular embankments that protrude out, extending the range of outgoing cannon fire and reducing the range of incoming cannon fire. The shape of the ramparts and earthen walls are also specifically designed to make storming of the fortress very difficult for foot soldiers. Let’s look around…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

The models in the two photos above, show the garrison town and earthworks of the star fort construction.

The gateway in…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

If you look inside the archway, in the middle on the left you can see one of the slots into which special panels are inserted when high water from the river threatens to flood the castle…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

.. and there is good reason why… these are the records etched into the stone of the various waterlevels over the centuries. No wonder we were told by one of the guides that the garrison regularly complained of having wet feet!

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

You can see just how close to the river(s) it is…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

Small guard towers positioned over the water, the small wooden structure gives a minimal protection against the elements…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

Like all of the large European rivers, the Waal is still very much in use for  barge transportation…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

I have a go at photographing the waterlilies… clearly I’m no Monet when it comes to showing them well…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

So, it’s clear that the number one adage of Real Estate ” Location, Location, Location”  has it’s roots far back in history and is absolutely as true then as it is today… so just goes to show that there are no really new ideas under the sun, just better marketing strategies !

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