Local Heart, Global Soul

August 17, 2010

The Highways of the skies, Yikes it’s busy up there!

Filed under: The Netherlands — kiwidutch @ 1:00 am
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(photograph © Kiwidutch)

We have been enjoying a family day out at Slot Loevestein Castle, in the Gelderland area of the Netherlands.

We have been focused all day on the castle, the grounds and all there is to see and do.

Now as we leave and head down a small road that heads to the car park area, my attention is drawn to the skies.

I know that the Netherlands is a small country and that flight paths into Schipol are busy because it’s a major European Airport Hub…

but wow.. just look at this!

Looking at it, it’s instantly clear that  a position at Schipol’s Air traffic control is not a job I would relish…

Homeward in a car, on a motorway seems tame after that…

August 16, 2010

Sheep in the “garden” and other Unexpected Views…

Filed under: The Netherlands — kiwidutch @ 1:00 am
Tags: , , , ,

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

It’s time for us to leave Slot Loevestein and head home…  the weather has been brilliant, we managed to arrive before the hordes so as we leave, the main street area of the garrison, (almost deserted when we arrived), is now packed with people having a late lunch/early dinner.

We concentrate on the former houses opposite the cafe’s, … which now house room after room of exhibits  excavated around the castle.

I did take lots of photos there, but made a fatal mistake of knocking the dial of my small pocket camera off “automatic” and halfway to the next setting.

I saw it on the camera when were outside the castle later and fixed the setting not thinking anything of it  until I  put the chip into the computer at home. Then I saw that most of the photos I took inside the museum were out of focus and looked over exposed. Oh well, I suppose it happens sometimes.

We have just finished walking around the entire castle, there is an extended walk that takes in the extended land also under castle ownership beyond the outer castle  defenses, but it’s a step too far for Little Mr’s legs today after all that stair climbing, bucketloads of running on the embankments and playing as much as possible everywhere.

All we need to do now is to give you a short tour of the grounds…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

Like the old shoes that have been found around the castle and grounds, we have done our walking for the day and it’s time to head  for home for  a rest…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

August 15, 2010

A Castle and the equivalent of the Penthouse View…

Filed under: The Netherlands — kiwidutch @ 1:00 am
Tags: , , , ,

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

Naturally getting to the very top of the Castle towers,  you want to take a look at the view.

The one small thing that puts a spanner in the works is the medieval builders did not put in panoramic windows at the top of their castles…

Come on now,Mr Medieval Builder, a little vision would not have gone astray now would it?  What?  You need protection from flaming arrows and cannon balls? (sigh)  Ok, Ok…

And so it is, that there are no convenient windows on all four sides at the top of the tower, I have to make do with pressing the camera up to the glass in the small ones near the top.

Still, with  view like this… who cares, anyone can feel like the “King of the Castle” and  it was worth all those stairs.

Let’s take a look…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

August 14, 2010

And my kids think they are hard done by, because we have no Dishwasher!

Filed under: The Netherlands — kiwidutch @ 1:00 am
Tags: , , , ,

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

For any self confessed Foodie the most interesting room when visiting anyones home is always the kitchen.

Castles, for Foodies are just “former homes” and even more interesting because they also speak volumes about the Culinary Art of ages past.

When our guide tell us that the next room will be the castle kitchen, my heart soars, when I rounded the corner and saw it …my heart sank…  wow, how sparse!  and for the number of people that  castle would have housed and necessitated feeding,  how  amazingly small!

The is a massive fireplace with a kind-of-spit-roast-thingy (for want of a better, more accurate technical term) but it’s a huge contraption that’s easily as tall as I am with a quadruple layer of turning spits and handles…. not only a remarkable  feat of engineering but also probably an annoyingly delicate balancing act to use in practice.

Most of the articles here today are  reproductions of what would have been represented here in centuries past, but two things grab my attention immediately: a less than round barrel that isn’t a reproduction and the source of water: a well.

Yes, literally parked into a recess in the outer wall there is a large cover (closed now for safely reasons)  over the large opening, with a pulley system and a wooden bucket above that again.

Even in summer, the  task of hauling water up from the depths of the well must have been a thankless enough task. In Winter it must have been pure misery. Water is heavy,  and pulling on a rope with your bare hands  is harder than it looks. Even with strong arms,  the chances are that the water hauler probably got splashed quite often and layers of wet  medieval clothes were probably no fun to squelch around in or to get dry.

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

Since invariably, menial kitchen work was done by women, there were probably rather a lot of scullery maids with fabulously toned biceps  hidden under their tunics and bodices simply because they hauled water from the well so often. No workout video’s needed  in those days!

It appears from the diet depicted here that food was very simple, very seasonal and probably sometimes rather limited.

The Dutch are the tallest people in the world, but it wasn’t always that way…  centuries ago they were usually rather short. Look at any preserved suit of armor that’s a few centuries old and you may be shocked at just how short.

My nine year old daughter has a far closer chance height-wise of getting into one of these suit than I ever would, and Himself?  Yikes,  by medieval standards  he’s a Goliath, and towers over the suit of armor like a friendly giant.

The amusing thing about that is that Himself is not considered “especially tall” here  in The Netherlands,  but yes, does attract comment when we travel. LOL

We have two nephews who are equal in height to Himself, and one of them is still growing!

In little over a century it’s abundantly clear that diet has played a massive role in how tall the Dutch were as a nation,  and have become today. Milk and cheese consumption here is wondrously huge and it’s not just Dutch height that has skyrocketed, it’s also longevity. So many people here celebrate their 100th Birthday these days  that it’s barely news any more.

So, simple food is a nice thought, but too simple and probably not enough of it, not only stunted growth but also meant short lives. Of course there are many other factors, people dying of the common cold or very small  infected wound  is thankfully no longer the regular occurrence it once was centuries ago.

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

This kitchen is very small,  there are some tables, but other than the oval shaped barrel in the corner, no other furniture remains, I try and envisage some, but it’s hard since the room is irregularly shaped and  there’s not really a lot of  open space.

At least the wooden doors remain, … beautiful, but nothing can hide the fact that the food cooked here was probably seasonal, very plain and exceptionally repetitious.

If you are well off enough to be sitting reading this on a computer, chances are that you also have food in your fridge, a supermarket or a garden, or a farmers market at hand somewhere close by, and such a selection of foods to choose from that  any medieval person walking though a time warp between their kitchen and yours, would  be totally overcome at the sheer scale and variety of food items on offer.

We don’t have a dishwasher in the Kiwidutch household, (well, actually we do, since all four of us enjoy the job description of “washer and dryers of dishes“).

Next time my kids complain of the task, or when I look at the pots and pans stacked up  in the sink and think “ugh, not really in the mood for this but where shall I start?”

I should at least have a decency to remember the poor medieval scullery maid, who had no instant hot water from the tap, just buckets of cold, nay, oft freezing water to do her dishes in.

If I also remember her fabulous biceps, then I might also see some gain and (gasp!), pleasure,  in my household  manual labour.

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

August 13, 2010

What’s a Kruittoren? …Ka BOOM! Now THERE’s a hint!

Filed under: The Netherlands — kiwidutch @ 1:00 am
Tags: , , ,

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

In days gone by when warfare involved gunpowder, it  was clear that keeping your very volatile ammunition outside the castle you were defending was imperative if you didn’t want an enemies lucky shot to blow you to smithereens  in rather catastrophic fashion.

So just where do you keep your gunpowder safe and dry for when you need it?

In a  specially constructed Gunpowder Tower of course.

Now another small Dutch lesson: “Kruit” means  “Gunpowder” and “toren” means Tower, so  “Kruittoren” is the  Dutch word for Gunpowder Tower.

Even though Slot Loevestein is a rather boxy, rectangular, style of castle,  medieval builders clearly also like to build in the round, so this Gunpowder Tower sports the classic fairly-tale style look of a tower.

Inside it’s surprisingly small (naturally the walls must be very thick indeed) and there is sadly little to see because the top floors are closed to the public and in the small lower level  room that is open, is empty except for a short film and a table full of leaflets for various places and things on offer in the region.

I would have liked to look at the film but the kids bored quickly and it’s probably better suited to slightly older kids.

One of the pamphlets repeats information also found on the Loevestein website:

“The Kruittoren is one of the two towers that remained following the siege of 1397. The outer bailey was badly damaged during the siege; the other tower was completely destroyed and  has never been rebuilt. As its name suggests, the Kruittoren was used as a gunpowder store for many years.”

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

There are other out-buildings around the castle from centuries past as well. These days they house a museum /shop, cafes and one opens shortly as a Bed and Breakfast… ( I forgot to get a photo of that last one, sorry, anyway apparently  it’s a “special occasion” type of B&B,  ie Luxurious and pricey)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

August 12, 2010

Castle at Rest and at Play…and Everything in-between.

Filed under: The Netherlands — kiwidutch @ 1:00 am
Tags: , , ,

Ok, to be fair, my last post didn’t really give you a good idea of the actual inside of the rooms inside Loevestein Castle.

Here’s a proper look inside…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

Wardrobe ( closet) for your suit?

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

This is the roof space at the very top… the massive winch used to be used to haul furniture , beams for repairs etc though a series of trapdoors that are aligned in the floors below it (sealed closed now for safety reasons)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

There was apparently some time available for children’s fun and games… this is a a copy of a medieval game of skittles, my own children delight in having a go and and I even manage to get a photo of the ball swinging by…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

So… What part of the Castle will we swing by next?

August 11, 2010

Think that living in a Castle would be a Fairy Tale?, Think again!

Filed under: The Netherlands — kiwidutch @ 1:00 am
Tags: , , ,

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

I know that in fairy tales that living in a castle seems like a dream come true.

Reality though, is rather colder and  massively more drafty.

One thing that amazes me is that despite the fact that the Dutch of past centuries were far shorter than the Dutch of today (better diet has clearly made a massive difference to the height of the population), that the rooms have massively high ceilings and surely must have been desperately hard to heat in winter.

Castle builders did learn that thick walls were not only a great defensive addition to their buildings, and also made it possible to build the structure higher and at Loevestein Castle parts of the walls  are meters thick.

Fireplaces, as the only form of heating were typically very large indeed, and even then they were not particularly efficient  as a method of heating.

Staircases were  deliberately made very narrow and winding in order to make storming a castle very difficult for enemy soldiers in their armour.

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

On a physical level, its clear that security was paramount, but on a practical level, day to day chores like getting firewood to those  massive fireplaces on the upper floors  must have  been  amongst the many back-breaking chores that would not have been pleasant or easy daily tasks.

Slot Loevestein was not built in one go, but started life as a Keep that was added on to bit by bit over time, and in five stages of building, this resulted in outer walls  becoming the ” inner” walls of the courtyard that was eventually formed once the four sides were joined together.

In this next photo,  please take note of  the small window with the open shutter in the very centre of the photograph…

… and then the very tiny window directly above it higher up…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

This next one is a photo taken looking down into the courtyard from the lower window (with the shutter)…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

And then another looking down from the tiny window at the top…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

Another photo from the first side shows the narrowness of the courtyard and the plaque that commemorates Hugo De Groot and his escape from the castle in the book-chest.

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

Windows were very small, so many of the rooms were dark… this makes deep inside window seats…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

For some bizarre reason the floors in the doorways of the lower levels were arched to match the arches above the doors… it’s so unusual that I actually did a double take and assumed for a moment that I had accidentally turned the photos upside down.

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

Small door into the Castle courtyard…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

and one of the “windows” directly inside this door…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

This is the small passageway that leads to the toilet…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

The actual toilet is very basic indeed and as was usual with conveniences of the time, it protrudes out of the outside wall a little, there is an open hole in the bottom so that the “contents” drop down into the moat below.  (um, bitterly cold in winter methinks!)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

Other nooks and crannies …

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

and an interesting roof-line… to quite literally top it all off…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

August 4, 2010

Het Gymnasium Haganum, when “Old School” means 1394!

Filed under: The Hague,The Netherlands — kiwidutch @ 1:00 am
Tags: , , ,

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

Het Gymnasium Haganum is a very well known landmark in The Hague.

It’s one of the oldest public schools in the Netherlands and was founded in1394.

The building as it is known today is  in the neoclassical style, built in 1907 and is located on the Laan van Meerdervoort.

Wikipedia also tells us:

In 2005 the school had around 650 students. The school is one of the top schools in the country, according to a yearly survey by Dutch “Elsevier” magazine.

http://www.haganum.nl/

I’m less interested in the schools scholastic merits and more interested in it’s gorgeous  architectural details.

Everywhere I look there is one detail or another. I find myself wishing for a tall ladder  or better, a small crane so that I can get up high enough to see it all.

Not that I’m any good with heights,  but I might be tempted to face my fear for the chance to drool over beautiful masonry, ironwork and tiles.

(sigh) Maybe, had I been a man and lived in centuries previous I could have been a Stonemason. I love adore stone, carving and the smoothness of flowing chiseled forms.

If I won the lottery big time, I could care less for a new, modern, stainless steel and glass mansion.Give me a character building with the baggage of History, crooked walls, doors that lean a little, old tiles,  wooden window  frames, shutters, deep window sills, window seats, and as much stone, brick and tile decoration as you could squeeze in with good taste.

Oh where to start? This building is dripping with detail, history, atmosphere…  too little time, not enough camera battery.  I’m in love…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

The Main entrance gate….

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

The Stork is the symbol of The Hague… he won’t go hungry with that fruit at his feet…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

The mor you look, the more detail you see… scroll, leaves, Latin and cornices.

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

Beautiful drapery in the clothes and a bird ( an eagle?) at her feet…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

The dude with the spear sits high up in the facade by the roofline… the tower is just in view.

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

Portraits and laurel wreaths set around the archway.

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

July 30, 2010

Learning to be a Tourist in your own Town, Province & Country.

Filed under: The Netherlands — kiwidutch @ 1:00 am
Tags: , ,

You know what it’s like,  Life is busy, you have family commitments and a small mountain of  appointments to get though each week.

Older kid has weekly reading, spelling, math and a small project homework, which we split into more manageable chunks and tackle bit by bit most weekday evenings. Younger kid loves to trying to read and write so we spend time helping him practice that most days too.

We work on homework  after dinner and after a hour or so of them enjoying the fresh air and (hopefully) sunshine in the park, and we read later in the evening before bed… and somehow in between we fit in music lessons, swimming, visits to Oma (Grandmother), Scouting, Birthday Parties, chores, play-dates  and various other things too.

This sort of family daily routine and semi-organised chaos has become routine for many families and it’s been an issue that doesn’t sit well with me, as I want to increase our family time together that doesn’t include the “have to get this done” stuff.

The other thing that I have to acknowledge is  that our kids have clocked up a lot of frequent -flyer air miles on our frequent trips abroad but have seen rather less of the country they live in. That bothers me.

For that reason we have made a plan, looked at our budget and decided to set aside Euro 250,- each month for “Fun Family Time”.

We will use this money for outings to places in the Netherlands, both near and far and to “be a tourist” in our own country on a semi regular basis.  If we need to stay overnight somewhere we will look for budget accommodation and try and do things as simply as possible.  We want to spend as much of the budget on costs like entrance fees etc as possible.

Any of the budget not used, is added to the next months budget….

So, stay tuned for some spasmodic posts about our outings, rambles and adventures.

Now all I need is advice on how to keep a five year old and a nine year old from fighting constantly in the back seat of the car, sadly our brood haven’t learned to do car journeys very well yet.

In our experience it’s actually easier to fly 14 hours to Singapore and a further 10 to New Zealand because the kids completely understand that  when we are in a plane there will be no possibility to just pull over ” and find a playground” and there are no ghastly yellow arched signs in the skies to turn my Little Mr into a little whining machine that he’s suddenly starving hungry and only Mc Rubbish will do.

He even does his best to look tragic and assumes the pitiful voice of a child who hasn’t eaten for days and who’s begging for a tiny scrap, regardless of the fact that less than ten minutes ago he’s eaten the sandwiches and banana we packed precisely for these sudden hunger pang moments. He also feigns desperate and dire thirst,  regardless of his personal water bottle nestled next to him on the back seat.

I hate McDo with a vengence but somehow Little Mr. hankers after this establishment like a kid on the outside of a sweet shop window. Personally I think he’s in love with the idea more than the food itself, but goodness knows why.

So… the Kiwidutch Clan are going to attempt car journey with kids… wish us luck !

July 28, 2010

Signs of the Times … slowly fading away.

Filed under: The Hague,The Netherlands — kiwidutch @ 1:00 am
Tags: , ,

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

I’m interested in old buildings, architecture,  the history of places.

It’s wonderful to see how buildings evolve in style and function, how they change with the times (or don’t).

I particularly like old advertising… and chanced upon this one whilst out on a walk one day.

The unexpected thing about this one is that I found it on what looks like an ordinary house, in an ordinary street full of houses, and not in a shopping street as I might have expected.

There are two signs, a long one and a short one. The short sign is easy enough: “wijnen” means “wines”, but the longer sign has deteriorated to the point where it is no longer legible.

I’ve tried guessing, but there are too many possibilities and combinations to be able to make sense of it at all.

I wonder when this was a business, when, for how long and why it stopped being one.

One thing is clear: businesses going out of business (for whatever reason) are nothing new… it’s being going on for decades, centuries and probably millennia.

Lack of heirs to take over the business?  lack of customers?  fell on hard times?  or suffered ill health? or maybe the owners went on to better or different things? … or simply moved somewhere else.

Who knows? It’s all part of the mystery.

The mystery remains, and will do so until the final letters slowly  fade away entirely.

Then no one will even know that a mystery had even existed….

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

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