Local Heart, Global Soul

May 29, 2010

When Going Boating means bring Stout Shoes and a Shovel…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

I’m still standing at the Waiau Bridge outside Hanmer Springs, New Zealand.

The Bungy jumper didn’t jump but I got some nice shots of the bridge surrounds anyway…

I turn to go and have walked a few steps when a familiar noise halts me in my tracks. a boat, but not just any boat,  …a jet boat.

I was going to tell you all about Bill Hamilton, but when I went to look up some facts, I found that Wiki had written it wonderfully so I’ll quote directly from there (with a little editing for conciseness)

It’s well worth the read because this is an invention that was truly born out of the necessity of trying to get around a high country station and one of the wide shallow rivers that flowed though it.

Sir Charles William Feilden Hamilton (26 July 1899 – 30 March 1978), commonly known as Bill Hamilton, was a New Zealander who developed the modern jetboat, and founder of what is now the world’s leading water jet manufacturing company – CWF Hamilton Ltd.

Hamilton never claimed to have invented the jet boat. He once said “I do not claim to have invented marine jet propulsion. The honour belongs to a gentleman named Archimedes, who lived some years ago”.

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

What Hamilton did was refine the design enough to produce the first useful modern jet boat.

Hamilton was born at Ashwick Station near Fairlie in the South Island of New Zealand.

In the 1950s he set out to try to build a boat that could navigate the shallow fast flowing rivers where he lived. The rivers were too shallow for propeller driven boats to navigate as the propeller would hit the river bottom.

He investigated the American Hanley Hydro-Jet, a model which drew in water and fired it out through a steerable nozzle underneath the boat. Even when further adapted it did not work well. An employee suggested to have the nozzle just above the waterline.

When he took one of his early demonstration jet boats to the US, the media scoffed when he said he planned to take it up the Colorado River (U.S.), but in 1960 a Hamilton jet became the first boat to travel up through the Grand Canyon. The critics were silenced further when the boat also went down river through the canyon.

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

The jetboat was one of three things that transformed the way the New Zealand High Country, the First is of course at the very Top of the List, are the indispensable and highly trained Sheep Dogs, without who’s help, rounding up sheep over the vast distances and rough terrain of High Country Stations simply would not be possible.

The Second is the Jet boat, which enabled farmers to reach pockets of land that had only been accessible by long hard overland hikes or  by vehicles that were regularly cut off by the rivers that navigated though the Stations large tracts of land and swelled quickly in heavy rains.

The Third innovation that transformed the High Country was the helicopter,  Musterers (people who use the dogs to round up sheep) traditionally had had to climb all of the tall peaks, and then, with their sheepdogs, transverse entire ranges, working as a team to drive the sheep down to lower elevations for shearing, lambing or  for feed when the higher altitudes were due to be covered in snow.

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

These days the bigger Stations have their own helicopters and the smaller ones will lease one for the duration of the Muster. A Muster done pre-helicopter generally took at least three weeks, now, with the musterers dropped off at the tops of mountain ranges and the helicopter to search out pockets of sheep in gully’s, the muster can be completed in around four days, depending on the size of the Station.

In the “old days” pack-horses would be bought up high into the hills, saddle bags and billy cans laden to the hilt with food, carefully prepared so that it could be easily cooked in one of the bivvy’s (a crude shelter usually of a lean-to variety) and dropped off at a designated spot for “cook” to collect and prepare for the very hungry musterers after a day spent hiking in the tops.

But enough of the Muster, and back to the jet boat….  Not only did the nations High Country farmers appreciate the jet boat, thousands of New Zealanders took to it as well for recreation, especially on the massive braided rivers that are an amazing geographical feature of the South Island.

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

If a Kiwi ever offers you the chance to go jet boating up one of these rivers, then seize the opportunity as fast as possible  as it’s an amazing experience that you will remember for the rest of your days. Here’s how it works: First you will need three things.. life jacket, strong shoes and a shovel… You are going boating but you may be spending quite a bit of time walking if you aren’t too lucky.

Two experienced people are essential to the trip, the driver and the navigator…  both know how to deal with the river, but have different jobs to do. This kind of  river is a strange beast,  braided pieces of water that may or may not be interconnected, mostly it can be compared with a Maze. There  will be some dead ends, and the depth of the water will be anything between several feet and three inches deep, alternating regularly throughout the braids.

The braids of water will branch constantly and but since you will be going up river at speed it can be very difficult to know which of the branches will lead to the next patch of deeper water and a bigger braid further ahead and which the boat should take.

The driver sits at the wheel, gaging the depth of the water and adjusting the speed accordingly, the more shallow the water the faster you need to go. The Navigator stands up next to him for a clear view of the river, making split second judgments on which direction to take every time the braid of water splits … and the braids split incessantly.

Knowing the river well can help tremendously but since a heavy rainfall in the upper reaches of the Alps can change the water patterns and water flows in the braids within 12 hours, it’s also an art-form to be able to”read” the river. Sometimes though, there can  be a certain amount of guesswork needed.

This massive fluctuation in water levels can be accommodated easily by a jet boat, the pump is sucking water in though the intake and expelling it though a small outtake, the effect of which is that the boat is propelled forwards, and at a decent speed the boat skims over the top of  the water and can operate in less that three inches of water.

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

If you are in a branch of the river where the water is say 30cm deep (1 foot) and you can see another branch ahead that looks about the same depth, it’s entirely possible that the multiple links between the two branches are less than three inches deep, but, sheer speed will glide you over this patch and back into the deeper water ahead.

Herein lies the fun bit…  in the above example the navigator can see the branch he’s in and the one he wants to get to and the thin links of shallow water between them, but Nature is not so ordered or polite,  and in reality there are bends in the river, islands, some with just river rocks and stones and others with low trees and scrubby shrubs. Visibility can be clear ahead, or not.

A good navigator can “read” the river quite a lot, and navigate accordingly but there will be some places where it’s simply impossible and a quick decision needs to be taken because you are travelling at great speed. Sometimes you guess wrong and what started as a branch of the river that looked deep, suddenly peters out into a dead end.

The driver has kept the speed up in order to get over the shallows, but all of a sudden there is a gravel bank around a corner and it stands between you and the next main body of water… Jet boats are renowned for being able to stop at almost point blank range but believe me, some of these shallows can disappear into nothingness in a nano-second,  and in which case, no, the boat doesn’t stop in time and crunch, ends up on dry land, or half in and half out of the water.

Either way the boat stops, and without the speed to keep it planing above the water, it sinks down like a stone.I have first hand experience that  jet boats are heavy… and to be honest it’s logical they are are more comfortable being in water and not half on dry land.

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

This is where the shovel comes in… everyone takes a shovel and starts digging around the boat to make a trench so that it can be floated back into deeper water and you can take off again. Sometimes it’s also not clear where the deep water and the rest of the river has actually gone to…and that’s where the  strong shoes come in, the passengers will take turns to start looking for the deeper water and figure out how to get to it.  Riverbeds are not kind to soft shoes.

It’s not to say that you will have to do the walking and digging parts of th equation because often the rivers are kind and you don’t run out of water… but it’s always a possibility and in a way, if it happens it’s a shock and a giggle, one second you are in a boat skimming over silvery water with the sun dancing off it, next you are half on dry land with a thump and everyone is laughing at the navigator, and grabbing shovels to help out… One thing is guaranteed, no matter  how easy or how difficult the trip you will get the boat ride of your life and laugh more in a few hours than you have in years.

Sadly this type of  really fun “back block no frills” jet boating is not offered to tourists as a matter of course… they get  offered the “safer, deeper water jet-boating experience” in sections of the rivers that are more predicable and reliable.

The tourists get offered rides like this one on the Waiau in these photos.

Is it exciting?  Heck Yes!

…Is it half as exciting as the “off-road back blocks High Country version?”

Well, I’m a High Country Gal at heart so would it really take you three guesses to figure out my answer to that one?

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bill_Hamilton_%28engineer%29

May 28, 2010

Bungy my Dear, Spring back to me!…

Filed under: New Zealand — kiwidutch @ 1:00 am
Tags: , , ,

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

At the Waiau River Bridge, outside Hanmer Springs in the South Island of New Zealand, there’s a second frequently asked question: newer, fresher and less historic than the first statement, ” Hey we are almost there!”

The second question still comes out like clockwork… “Do you think we will see any Bungy jumpers today?

Yep, the Waiau bridge is one of New Zealand’s  Bungy bridges.

We are constantly on the lookout to see if there are any foolhardy brave souls waiting on the little platform, ready to jump.

So far we’ve had no luck, but today I decide to park the car back along the road a bit and to walk over and take some photos of the bridge, river and gorge anyway.

The weather is warm and windy, so it’s a nice chance for a walk and a closer look at the view that usually only flashes by as you drive oven in the car.

I was on the bridge when along came a group of people, and one man all harnessed up, walking with his son.

They all make their way to the center of the bridge, hey I’m about to get some bungy jumping photos!

They are there for a good 10  minutes or more, the bungy ropes are sorted out and dangle over the edge of the bridge.. then I hear a countdown  … Three, Two, One…

Camera at the  ready I wait for the moment when  the guy launches himself off the edge, but it doesn’t come.

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

There appears to be some sort of consultation going on, the guy sits near the edge of the platform for another 5 minutes at least.

Eventually it’s clear he’s changed his mind and won’t be jumping after all.

I back off my end of the bridge and the group pass back by when they leave with all the gear. I be honest I respect his decision completely,  I couldn’t do this either.

His son gives his Dad a covert hug as they head down the path away from me… good on you lad, It must have been a tough thing for Dad to admit that he didn’t want to go though with it.

Himself says he might consider a Bungy jump if someone would pay him say a million dollars to do it…

Me,  Never Ever, not for all the money in the world.

(but you already know I’m a wimp, right?)

May 27, 2010

You know when you’ve reached the Bridge, you’re almost there…

Filed under: New Zealand — kiwidutch @ 1:00 am
Tags: , , ,

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

I’m not a gambling type of person (OK, ok,  do you really count the single lottery ticket we buy as a family per month so that we can dream a little about “what if“?)

Well, If I were a gambler I think I wouldn’t get good Odds from any locals on the wager I’m about to mention now…

If you are travelling on  State Highway 7 inland towards New Zealand’s Lewis Pass, then you are by coincidence on the Hanmer Springs access road

Then comes a turnoff, (that some inspired person in Planning proceeded to call “State Highway 7A”)  it’s well marked and from here to the Waiau River and bridge is literally just a few minutes drive from the turnoff.

In turn, from the Bridge to Hanmer Springs is also just a matter of minutes drive …

If I were God and could hear all the conversations going on in all the cars that travelled this way, then sure as eggs, surely every family with kids rounds the bend, see the Waiau Bridge come into view and the words ” hey here’s the bridge, we are ALMOST there!”  drop out of the parents mouths…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

It’s just the thing that everyone says almost without fail and if I could lay bets on it I’d be rich today and retiring tomorrow LOL.

Surely you can also think of a landmark somewhere that you know well, where similar words are uttered because it’s a wonderful signal to squirming restless kids in the back seat that freedom is close at hand if they can hang on for just a few minutes more.

So a bridge is just a bridge?  Not necessarily.. This one is 100 years old for a start… lets take a look around…

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

(photograph © Kiwidutch)

.. and when I see this bridge come into view, I feel in my bones that I am home.

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